Our laundry room area had lots of unused space so this video covers installing a clothes hanger rod and shelf. Low cost improvement - about $50 for everything.
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The following are Amazon Affiliate links to the equipment and materials that were used to produce this video. Amazon Affiliate links help us keep this blog up and running so if you are interested in making a purchase, please use one of the links below:
Closet Pro RP-0044-BWT Light Duty 11 in. Shelf And Rod Bracket, White(not the exact brand I used but a good substitute). Amazon Link: amzn.to/2yQG9x7
Closet Pro 0018-4 Closet Pole, 48-Inch, White (not the exact brand I used but a good substitute). Make sure you get the length you need for your install. Amazon Link: amzn.to/2xLHjVO
Grip-Rite 2-Inch #6 Coarse Thread Drywall Screw with Bugle Head, 1 Pound #2CDWS. Amazon Link: amzn.to/2ytqzEN
ScotchBlue 20901A Painters Masking Tape, 60 yd Length x 1" Width, Blue. Amazon Link: amzn.to/2ytrMvG
Johnson Level, & Tool CS10 Carpenter Square. Amazon Link: amzn.to/2xMJTPX
Milwaukee 6509-31 12 Amp Sawzall Reciprocating Saw Kit. Amazo Link: amzn.to/2zhPVES
Panasonic EY6432NQKW 15.6-Volt NiMH 1/2-Inch Cordless Drill/Driver Kit (not the exact cordless drill I used but a close substitute). Amazon Link: amzn.to/2zvZX60
An option for the cordless drill - I love this DeWalt - DEWALT DCF681N2 8V Max Gyroscopic Screwdriver with Conduit Reamer. Amazon Link: amzn.to/2zvDzd3
Craftsman 7-1/4 in. Circular Saw 12AMP Model: 46123 With 0 Degree - 52 Degree Bevel. Amazon Link: amzn.to/2xMzcNv
Again, everyone Dave Johnston here with another project that we're tackling today this one's a little bit different in that it's a home improvement project, not fixing anything but adding to an existing laundry area.
That just is not adequate to do.
The job makes it really difficult for my wife to do the things that she needs to do with respect to laundry.
So I am doing this as part of her Christmas present this year.
So don't tell her it's a secret, so we'll get started here.
I'm gonna show you a before haven't done anything here.
This is just trying to make this work in the space it's here and then we'll go ahead and go through the the tasks.
Add a hanger bar to hang the clothes on and then I'm going to add a shelf on top of that and make it so that it can all be organized.
Things can be put away and this space isn't so bad.
It's it's the upstairs laundry.
So it's not a big room.
It's the type, that's kind of an expanded closet has the washer/dryer in it and it's very convenient very nice.
It's just that it doesn't have all the things that it could have to make life easier.
So I'll show you what it looks like this is before the you can see.
Both the doors are open, they're open because there's nowhere to hang anything so as you're you're doing the different laundry needing to hang things up to dry or whatnot right now.
The only place you can hang them is on the molding.
That goes across the top of the doors on the inside of the closet area, so kind of making the best of a limited situation.
You can see the washer and dryer there now you can see a lot easier.
What we have to work with.
Hopefully you can see that what I was going to show is the whole idea of this project is to get the clothes to hang at the right level so that you have space underneath here on top of the washer and dryer.
That makes it useful and then you'll have up at the top.
You'll also have space on the shelf and that it doesn't make it so far away out a person can't reach them and I think with my bracket.
Hopefully you can see that about like so so I'm gonna mark get in there.
Okay, it's a little bit far away, but hopefully you can see me okay.
What I'm gonna do is Mount this first bracket have it there.
You can see that it makes it a little bit easier with this bracket.
It's a little more convenient to put the screw in so I'll mark that hole, and these these brackets have these holes on the top, where the head of the screw can go right through so I put the screw in put the bracket up and then finish it off, and that makes a little bit easier to get in here without the bracket.
In my way now we're gonna go through and attach all these into the studs, so they have lots and lots of strength.
We don't do anything as far as sheetrock anchors, they're just weak and they make big holes in the wall and I do everything I possibly can to avoid them when I can, and in this case we're going to do that with that screw in place, you can put this one up right where it goes that worked out really well.
Probably look so turn that on you're, probably noticing that my screws are black, the brackets and whoops, when we have the shells, everything's gonna be white, so I will have to come back and touch up.
The heads of the screws like I was showing before I could have bought the screws with the white caps but they're more expensive.
They aren't as strong as these screws.
They aren't as easy to use so touching these up when we're all done, won't be a big deal so that guy is in place.
If you can see that what I was gonna mention about studs rather than using, you would never use sheetrock anchors for this kind of a project thing.
They will would definitely pull out a wall, not something that you want to use for something like this.
It's got to hold up some weight, but what I was gonna say about the studs.
Is you can always rely on a stud in the corner, so this corner and my other corner? This studs are very easy to find, and you always want to make sure that you hit a stud when you put your screws in otherwise it will just fall right out of the wall, so we have that one in place yet then becomes my standard as far as the height for all the rest of them, and let me do one more quick check here now that we've got that in place.
I think that looks good and that this is a relatively long shirt.
So there are other shirts will be up higher, so I think we're in good shape.
What we will do here is I, don't I don't have one of the electronic set finders that maybe a future review, because I've always had good luck.
Finding the stubs with my knuckles stud finder, which I'll show you in just a second, you typically can count on them being 16 inches apart.
The hard part of that is knowing where to start your 16 inch measurement from the other hard part of that is sometimes your walls and closet spaces and whatnot don't come out exactly to be 16 inches, so you may have one that's a short space in there somewhere and it sometimes can be a challenge figuring out where exactly to hit.
We do have one starting point here where we know from this corner, because there, hopefully the next one, is the sixteenth inch center coming this direction from that one.
If that's case, then it'll be very easy to to find him and space um quick close-up here, what I've done so that guy he's it's pulled out a little bit from the wall because of the the bracket itself, and when we put that up with the rod in place, there's a small screw.
You can't see it, but right here at the bottom of the bracket is a screw or we can screw into the rod to hold the rod into place and then it'll help space.
All of those as well.
So we'll do that here in a little bit, I'd like to make it so that it's a little easier for you to see.
These are the brackets up that, hopefully it's a little bit better.
The next one will be right about here.
Okay, I know this one ends up being 10 and 3/8 inches, 10 and 7/16 from the ceiling.
So my my stud finder approach, sound changes so I'm guessing right back here.
If I put just a teeny mark there and I measure to verify for this guy I know if you can see the red on this basic tape.
Where I put my mark right here, it matches the 16 inches from the other screw exactly I.
Think I nailed that one.
So we will know for certain here in a second.
What I'm going to do is I have this at this inexpensive level, okay and then for ages anyway.
This will be good enough for what we're doing here, what I do just because it makes it easy, as I'm measuring down from the ceiling and doing my spacing across all of these brackets and measuring down that same 10 and 7/16 from the ceiling to begin with, and then I'll verify it with the level going from bracket to bracket to make sure that the Shelf will end up being level when we're all done, and obviously, if it's out of level, not only from an aesthetic point of view, can have just look bad because people can see it and say wow, that's that's crooked or it's it's not in parallel with the ceiling and also you could lay something on your shelf and they could roll off.
So being level is a good critical thing.
It will make sure that that's the case here.
So what I'll do? First, with this one all right found the stud I'll mark it come in this other way, ten and 7/16.
Last one now, we've got all of the hangers in place.
I also did a little spackling job on the the extra holes so we're golden there.
Okay, to get the rod length right, we've got to measure from end ed to the wall, to the edge of the wall.
So if I come across here, 78 we'll need to cut the shells, they're gonna be too long and the rod is too long.
So let's go cut them and then we'll come back here and put it in place.
Okay and we need 78 we're going to cut off right there now I have my sawzall Milwaukee sawzall, with the hacksaw blade.
Obviously this could be done with a hand hacksaw as well.
It's not that big a deal, but this is just much faster.
So we'll go with this.
If I can hold it steady he's secure.
Okay, let's go see! If we got that right, we can take.
The label started: okay, bingo it does, and if we try my shirt again, real, quick, very easy.
Yes, there's a hole in the bottom of each one of these hangers.
We don't need to screw them all, but we will screw the one in the end, the Sindh and then the one in that and just to make it so that the rod doesn't bang into the wall and so that the supports these on the end, where I couldn't control how they were tilted, it'll spread them out, make it all nice.
Okay, let's go do the shelves here are the shelves and they didn't have one length that was long enough, that I could cut down.
These are covered the same all the way around.
So there's not a top and a bottom.
That's close enough! We'll just put the other one on there and cut that, and then this one is done.
I don't have to do anything to it.
That's way better.
You notice that it did come over Midway, so we don't want to cut it right in the middle or it will be too long and we'll give a little bit on the end and then mark it.
So I only have to make one cut, which is awesome.
Normally I would have my big square.
That would be long enough to go all the way across, but today I don't have it so we'll use this one and do our best.
Okay, with this laminated kind of board I guess it's melamine go ahead and put some tape on the side.
I want to make only masking tape.
I have available there.
We go okay, so you just put it on there to help keep chips from happening, make it so that if there is something that happens, it's minimized and I have.
My circular saw to do that again.
You could do it with a handsaw, but that's obviously a bigger job takes longer so and I just so happen to have my plywood blade in this saw so it'll be perfect.
Cutting this guy that guy looks good means are good.
Okay, we're ready to go for them, see how they fit in there and everyone in here.
Okay, that's awful tight to the wall.
I doubt I'll.
Do anything with that one, this one! It's tough to do anything with them, since it is particle board, it's gonna break right out.
So instead for this guy sure they're tight and then I'll put one here, one more right here hit the button.
Okay, that's it it's in place, let's load it up.
Here is the after, and we have a lot more room even before we run into the other little shelf.
There stores are still some more storage up on top plus see.
If I can big plus is we can now very easily closed or there you go.
That is it for this little project hope you enjoyed.
It I hope that there was something useful there.
We definitely have more space, much easier to use the washer the dryer and have the things available to you there that you need and then be able to have a place to hang things up and make the process go a lot faster and, as you know, happy wife happy life.
Now if she was here, she probably smacked me because she hates si, but it's actually true so I think this will make her happy and like I say it is a Christmas present.
So don't tell her the secret thanks for watching, as always feel free to leave comments and questions down below the video there and hope to see you next time see ya like closet door.
I wanted to do this forever.
Christmas, you think of what I can do.
For a single rod application, plan 60-inches from the floor for placement. You will need at least 1-foot, 9-inches (24-inches is standard) away from the back wall for hanging. When spanning an opening of more than 48-inches, consider adding a center support to the closet rod for added stability.How much space should be between a shelf and hanging rod? ›
Allow a minimum 4-inch clearance between the rods and the underside of a shelf. Shelving should be no more than 16 inches deep in a 24-inch-deep closet. Walk-in closets should be a minimum of 4 feet wide if hanging rods are to be in an “L” configuration and at least 6 feet wide if both sides are to be used for hanging.How much space should be between hanging rod and shelf? ›
Allow about 24 inches of space behind the rod to hang garments and 4 inches above the rod before you add shelving, which allows for easy hanging of clothes.How much weight can a closet rod support? ›
A: An average closet rod can hold 80 to 100lbs of weight. The exact load capacity depends on the material, wall thickness, and diameter.How deep is a shelf above a closet rod? ›
Unless your closet uses tall doors or doors that go all the way to the ceiling, a 12 inch shelf depth is recommended. The reason is because of the space between the header and the top shelf in the closet. In standard construction, the bottom of a header is typically positioned at 72 inches from the floor.What is a clothes hanging rod called? ›
Some people call it a valet rod, others call it a valet pole. We think every clothes closet should have at least one.How deep should closet shelves be? ›
The ideal depth for a reach-in or wardrobe closet tends to be 10 to 12 inches for a closet that is 26-inches deep. A shelf depth of 12 to 14 inches can still be manageable for a reach-in closet that is more than 28-inches deep.How high should the top shelf be in a closet? ›
From a standard viewpoint, the top shelf in most closets should be 84 inches from the bottom of the floor. This shelf is designed for storage of non-daily items because at 7 feet high, it is just above the height most people can reach with ease.How deep should a closet be for hanging clothes? ›
Ideally, the depth of the closet should be around 24 inches deep. For bulkier clothing items like winter coats, the closet depth can be as much as 28 inches. Another factor to consider for your reach-in closet dimensions is the return walls.Which side of a shelf bracket goes against the wall? ›
You should fit shelf brackets with the longer arm against the wall and the shorter one under the shelf. Remember, the length of the longer arm will show you how closely you can fit the shelves on top of each other.
Which Side of L Brackets Goes onto the Wall? The longest part of the bracket goes against the wall underneath the shelf bracket.Do shelf brackets need a stud? ›
If your shelves are heavy or you plan on using them to hold a heavy object, installing the shelving into studs will provide optimal holding power. Of course, a stud is not necessary for all shelving systems. Depending on the product, you can support from 50 to 350 pounds without anchoring directly into a support beam.Where do you put brackets under shelves? ›
Use a standard level to make sure it's placed in a straight line, then lightly mark the wall with a pencil on both ends. Position the shelf brackets against the wall along the bottom of the shelf. Mark inside the holes so you know exactly where to insert the screws.